Kavee Restaurant: a well-composed culinary poem expressed in a dynamically enticing approach
If you've ever spoken with prominent chefs, they'll probably tell you something along the line: food and art is often very connected. Situated at Sukhumvit 38, Kavee is a close-knit minimally decorated restaurant with a prominent white counter and an open kitchen towards one side. Taking the word "poet" from the Thai language, the concepts at Kavee are symbolic and conceptual. As implied by the restaurant's name, Kavee draws references and inspiration from traditional Thai dishes to exemplify the complexity and elegance of Thai flavors in a dynamically appealing and well-composed manner, in the form of a contemporary stylized tasting menu.
Behind the master of this trade is Chef Worathon “Tae” Udomchalotorn, the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) alumni who have been a classmate and coworker with one Michelin star Chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn at Le Du. Ever since they parted ways, chef Tae has refined his crafts at the three-Michelin-starred Benu in San Francisco prior to launching Kavee. The restaurant's current 10-course (THB 2,990++) set menu titled ‘An Elegant Wilderness’ emphasizes the extensive use of Thai flavors and a combination of premium import and locally sourced ingredients that most people may deem quite exotic. The delivery of the multi-course menu is placed in a precise sequence producing the utmost rewarding dining experience imaginable giving the dishes their element of poetry.
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If you have taken a glance at the menu and been taken back by the ingredients or gotten cold feet, we recommend you also opt for the curated wine pairing (THB 1,900++) because as we all know, alcohol makes you a little braver or at least more open-minded. The opening course would alter attitudes through underrated ingredients that many people think are undeserving with the 'Straight From The Rice Field' dish, which incorporates ingredients like apple snails from Sa Kaeo and wild-caught frog legs from Nakhon Nayok province served with garlic chive porridge and wild watercress. The pigeon dish from Ang Thong province was equally fascinating. Implementing the zero-waste principle, no part of the pigeon is wasted, with the adaptation of the French classic duck a l'orange, the juicy meat is served with silky liver pate along with citrus jus, Kaffir syrup, cherry sauce, and Srisaket's volcanic black garlic.
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Though the next course was underwhelming in comparison to the others, the rustic yet tender "Full-blood Wagyu Chateaubriand" served with bolete mushroom purée and truffle bordelaise sauce will surely fail to disappoint. Finishing off with a bang or scream, it's up to you, chef Tae’s implements a daring approach to the dessert, with the use of Isan winged-ant powder (mae paeng) that has rich and malty undertones which blend incredibly well with the peanut butter caramel ice cream and the cracker on top. Without the help of mainstream ingredients like wagyu, uni, and scallop, chef Tae has added value to local produces, promoted the Thai economy, and proved a valid point that Thai ingredients can be on par with other well-known culinary ingredients as well. We are excited to yet uncover the next installment of his ingeniously written gastronomic poetry and the direction he leads the Thai culinary scene!